A signet ring has a flat face, called the bezel or table, made to carry a mark: a crest, a monogram, initials or a symbol. For centuries it was a practical object, used to seal letters and documents in wax. Today it is chosen as much for its clean, architectural form as for its history.
A short history
Seals were used in the ancient world to mark ownership and authenticate documents, and seal rings appear in many ancient cultures. For centuries, pressing a signet into wax was a way to sign. Families and institutions engraved their arms or initials, and the ring became a symbol of identity.
Face shapes
- Oval: the classic form.
- Round: compact and modern.
- Rectangular or cushion: architectural, with more room for engraving.
Engraving
| Type | How it works | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Surface engraving | Cut into the face and read directly | Initials and monograms |
| Seal engraving | Cut in reverse and in depth | Leaving an impression in wax |
| Plain | No engraving | A minimal look, or to engrave later |
How it is worn
Traditionally, particularly in Britain, the signet is worn on the little finger, often of the non-dominant hand. Today it is worn on any finger, alone or as part of a stack.
Proportions
A signet's presence depends on the size of its face in relation to the finger. Smaller faces, around 10 mm, are discreet and suit the little finger; larger faces carry more detailed engraving and make a stronger statement. The band often tapers from the face towards the back of the ring for comfort.
Personalising a signet
- Initials or a monogram, in a typeface or in engraved script.
- A family crest, if you are entitled to use one.
- A symbol or date with personal meaning.
- A stone: some signets have a flat gem, such as onyx or lapis lazuli, which can be engraved.
Wearing more than one
Signets can be worn in pairs or stacked with plain bands. Keep the proportions varied, a larger face with a finer band, so the rings do not compete.
Care
The flat face shows scratches more than a curved band. A light polish restores it, but repeated polishing can soften fine engraving over the years, so do it sparingly. Seal engraving collects dirt; clean it with a soft brush.
Sources: General history of seal rings; see museum collections of antique signet rings.
Frequently asked questions
Which finger is a signet ring worn on?
Traditionally, especially in Britain, the little finger. Today any finger is correct.
What is seal engraving?
Engraving cut in reverse and in depth, so that it leaves a readable impression when pressed into wax.
Can women wear signet rings?
Of course. Signet rings are worn by everyone, in every size and style.
Can a signet be engraved later?
Yes. Many people choose a plain signet and engrave it later.
